Wednesday, April 29, 2009

Vigeland Park, Oslo, Norway


Vigeland is one of Norway's best known artists and created the 200 awesome sculptures which adorn this beautiful park.

The peaceful layout of the park, which is located in downtown Oslo and is easily accesible by bus and tram. Vigeland worked on the park for over two decades until his death in 1943.

Vigeland's statues are known for their realistic shaping, their humanistic qualities and sexual connotations.

His sculptures showed the real side of humanity, and embraced forms of all sizes, all ages and all emotions.

Whether it be a a exuberant mother, joyfully raising her child to the sky...

Or a father trying to juggle his children...

All of his statues evoke movement, fluidity and strength.

Even on a heavy, rainy day, the beauty and splendor of Vigeland's artwork comes shining through.

PS - Click on images to enlarge them (it's worth it!) and please see my other blog: Anywhere But Here for all your fashion needs :)

Sunday, April 26, 2009

Bargain Hotel in Rome

All right, so it's not really that much of a bargain considering I spent around 60Euros (the 35 Euro a night place in Paris, now THAT was a bargain). But it still wasn't bad, for Rome in peak season.

In Rome, I stayed at the Hotel "Aenea Superior Inn" or something like that. It was a very non-descript hotel, especially since I walked past it a few times before figuring out what building it is. There is no sign saying HOTEL on the door or anything, just a buzzer number....

In fact, the hotel is shared with an apartment building and perhaps some offices. The first floor (really, the 2nd one) was where I was placed, a long corridor and several air conditioned rooms. The reception was the next floor up, through another locked door. The people who worked there were very friendly and there if you needed them, but required you to buzz them or call...and sometimes there was no one in the building at all.

Doesn't matter though, because I was shown to my very small but very lovely room. Best thing about it? Not the view of the church courtyard (beware of nuns)
or its modern bathroom

But the fact that the AIR CON was on full blast! Bliss! So nice since you fucking soak you shirt in Rome just by standing outside for a few minutes. Oh, and the bed, small and wee just for me, was comfy too...

The location of the hotel was brilliant too. Yes, the area near the Termini train station can be a bit dodgy, but you wouldn't know it from the hotel. Steps away from the famous St. Maria Maggiore church and close to Via Nazionale which has many great Italian shops, you can't go wrong. The Colluseum and the Roman Forums are scarily close, which I discovered by accident walking down the street one day. Turn a corner and BOOM you are in the middle of a THIS IS ROME postcard and you have no idea where to turn your camera.

All in all, the hotel is a great choice. It was so clean, the staff (mainly the wonderful David) was beyond friendly when it comes to telling you the best palces to go in Rome and the location can't be beat. The only problem I had was the price...fine for a night or two, but if on a budget, I might shop around. Oh and the fact that the hotel doesn't have a public phone or phones in your room. That said, I did end up staying there again on my way out of Rome, so I can definitley recommend it.

Via Urbana, 156.
00184 -ROMA
Fax #: +390648916434

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Tuesday, April 21, 2009

La Cruz, Mexico

Twenty-minutes north of the tourist Mecca of Puerto Vallarta, Mexico, lies the town (pueblo) of La Cruz. It's full name being La Cruz de Huanacaxtle (which means the cross of the Huanacaxtle trees), La Cruz is a small and humble Mexican town, typical of those that flourish on the Pacific Coast.

I had the pleasure of being anchored offshore of La Cruz for a few days, while we waited for space to be available at the Nuevo Vallarta Marina nearby.

La Cruz has a few tourist provisions such as a 24-hour pharmacy, a hardware store, a grocery store, a British pub and various low-key hotels. Best of all, La Cruz has many wonderful and diverse restuarants, such as the Black Forest restaurant, where they serve scrumptious German food (a rarity in Mexico).

A great place to stay in La Cruz is the La Cruz Bungalows. We checked out this place when we expored the tiny town and looked so cute. Check out the website link above and you'll see what a cheerful place it would be to languidly pass a few days, especially at a festive time such as Navidad (Christmas).

Because La Cruz is such a small town, it's the perfect place to get away. There will be no crowds on the cobblestone streets, no peddlers hawking their wares on the fine-sanded beach and no sunburned tourists walking around in droves. When we were there we saw only Mexicans and one Gringo (not counting the two Gringas below).

That's not to say that tourism doesn't exist. But instead of countless holiday-seekers, foreigners come to La Cruz to snatch up properties that would be too expensive to buy in nearby Puerto Vallarta. The real estate business is booming in and the town is struggling to catch up, which why you will see wonderful new houses on dirt roads.

The best part of La Cruz is the fact that it is a typical Mexican town. Stroll around the wavering streets and you will come across meandering chickens, goats following children on bikes, families hanging out in their doorways, roadside vendors selling tacos, dogs lazing in the dirt, teenagers hanging out on the streets, kids playing in the water and neighbours talking to each other over the fence.

The only problem we had with La Cruz was the fact that a huge marina is being constructed there. Now, this will great for us boaters when it is finally completed next year, but because it is under construction, the beach area around the marina was off-limits.

I also have to wonder what a huge marina, as well as the accompanying condo developments and hotel, will do to the area. I have a feeling that if I come back to La Cruz in a year or two, it will be completely different. Whether the influx of tourism and development will be good for the locals, that remains to be seen.

Monday, April 20, 2009

The Scent of Grasse

I was squeezed onto a tiny strip of sticky sand in Cannes, head heavy from the sun and the cloying smell of monoi suntan oil, when I decided I needed a change. After days on the famed beaches of the Cote D’Auzur, I felt less like a lounging beach bunny and more like a nervous wreck.

I was tired of fighting for space between the umbrellas, tired of having surly teenagers kick sand in my face, tired of battling pushy families, topless sunbathers and yapping pooches. This was the time to head inland, away from the packaged heat of the French Riveria. I would journey to the Provencal town of Grasse, where I could clear my head, inhale the country air, and find the holy grail of my trip: the perfect French perfume.
Fifteen km away from the ritz and glitz of Cannes and 30 km from the bustle of Nice, the French Provencal town of Grasse has always been a popular escape for locals and tourists alike. Known for its fresh air, fragrant meadows and small town charm, it is often described as the perfume capital of the world, which was the real reason I was going. With three famous perfume production plants (or “perfumuers”) offering free guided tours of their factories, I was determined to finally sniff out my signature scent, the kind that cloaked you in uniqueness, prompting those around you to ask what you were wearing.

My guidebooks had told me that the only way to reach Grasse was by car or bus, but when I arrived at the station in Cannes, I found out that the SNCF railroad had added a new route. I purchased a return ticket and hopped on the shiny double-decker train. While across from me a local girl ate noisily from a giant bag of peanut M&M’s, I was content with staring out the window and watching my first glimpses of the real Provence zip by. The stereotypical postcards were true, as rough stone houses, lined with cream and violet fields, framed both sides of the tracks.

Twenty-five minutes later, the train rolled into the modern Grasse station. The only problem was that the station itself was built on the outreaches of town, and the old town (“vieille ville”) was located at the peak of a looming hill, which presided over the train station like an ominous vulture. By the time I got my bearings, the train had rolled back to Cannes and the station was deserted.

Stubbornly refusing to waste my money on a cab, I trudged up the hill, having no idea where I was headed except up. I could feel the sympathetic stares from the local motorists and at one point an elderly lady offered me a ride. Not willing to be kidnapped by a crazy French woman, I politely declined and continued on my aimless way. With each step, the air grew thicker and a bank of dark clouds rolled in from the unseen sea to south. Finally, clothed in gray humidity, I reached the summit of the town. Before me, gracefully perched at the end of a steep flight of poppy-lined stairs, was the Fragonard Perfumuer, perhaps the most famous one in all of Grasse.

I entered the stately mansion and was immediately enveloped by a sense of stillness and the clean scent of white linen. It was strangely hushed and when I journeyed up to the reception on the second floor, I found only a handful of tourists milling around, poking at antique perfume bottles.

The perfumeur was closing soon and the last tour of the day was about to commence. It was held in French (the English tours had ended hours earlier) but I figured I could wing it and try and put my French classes to good use.

I joined a group of about ten other people, mainly French nationals in pastel clothing with a few confused Germans sprinkled here and there. Our guide was a smiling, young Korean girl who spoke fluent French with an Asian accent. Because of this, she spoke her words slowly and clearly, which thankfully allowed me to understand most of the things she was saying.

She took us into an echoing room filled with vats of sterile containers and briefly went over the history of the factory. There were only a few snippets of information that my mind could make sense of. The Fragonard building was one of the oldest in Grasse, built for the serious business of smells in 1782. Ever since then, they’ve produced perfumes and soaps on a daily basis, still steeped in the traditional ways.

Grasse was a great perfume producer because the climate nurtured delicate flowers such as jasmine and mimosa. 3000 people work in Grasse at the fragrance factories, which produce 50 per cent of France’s turnover and six per cent of the world’s turnover. And Queen Victoria once spent a few winters here on vacation. I tried to imagine what kind of perfume the Queen would have worn. Probably one of those headache-inducing stenches that overtake you in the elevator.

When the history lesson was over, she led us into another room, this one piled with
huge steel tanks. Each tank was given a name like Damask Rose and Vanille. These were used to distill the fragrances and we were shown aging copper tanks that were used in the olden, golden days of perfuming.

The next part of the tour was more interesting. Here, wooden crates were laid out around the room, each resembling a bee box. Only, instead of layers of collected honey, there were scatterings of delicate flowers between glass planes, all resting on what looked like a strip of gauze. We learned that the flowers would melt onto the layer of fat that lay beneath the gauze. Over time, the flowers and the fat would concentrate and what was left was called “absolute.” The primal essence of smell.

Near the end of the tour, after we were lead through the museum part, which housed ancient relics from the bygone eras, we had a glimpse at one of the “noses” hard at work. On the other side of a thick glass door, contained as if he were radioactive material, sat an doctor-ish man, scribbling into a notebook. Hundreds of tiny vials of perfume surrounded him on all sides like a scented congregation. The man looked over at us and waved, as he probably did for every other tour, then went back to work, peering over the vials like a mad French scientist.

Later, the guide told us that “noses” like him could differentiate 10,000 different smells. Most humans can differentiate between 4,000 and 10,000 different smells, though most of the time we aren’t aware of it. Expert “noses” go through years of training to achieve this level of awareness. But, enough about the sciences of odors and smells, I was itching to try on the perfumes and get down to smelly business.

And so, after the tour was over, I spent more time than I should have in the factory’s gift shop. I was trying to decide between Miranda, a warm, thick eau de toilette and Diamant, a spray that promised to “leave a luminous trail of desire” behind whoever wears it.

Finally, after my nostrils had gone numb and the shop clerks impatiently checked their watches for the billionth time, I hastily plucked the tiny bottle of Miranda from the counter, leaving the trail of desire for another time. Miranda was unique, a heady mix of coconut, amber and rich vanilla, perhaps “my” scent. I was so sure of my deciscion, I barely even winced when I handed over 22 Euros for the perfume no bigger than a tube of Visine. Satisfied with my purchase, I was ushered out of the factory and onto the street.

The satisfaction didn’t last very long. It was absolutely pouring outside, as if vast bathtubs of cold, gray water were being dumped from up high. It pound down on the streets, down through the North African palms, through the awning of the museum and on to me. I was drenched in two seconds flat.

I turned back towards the factory hoping to call a cab, but a white-cloaked guard had already locked the door after me (I must have been in that gift shop for a longer than I thought). I had no choice but to somehow book it down this tyrant of a hill to the train station, not an easy feat when you were wearing soaked linen pants, a singlet and flip-flops that slid out from under you with every step you took.

After almost falling on my butt a few times, fording overflowing sewer drains and being splashed by what looked like the little old lady who hours before had offered me a ride, I decided the most logical thing for me to do was catch a bus down to the train station. Down another tilted street, I spotted what looked like a bus stop, and, the holy grail of wet weather, a shelter of some sort. Excited at the prospect of getting dry, I scuttled over to it, only to find that the roof of the bus shelter was missing. I gritted my teeth.

The bus eventually came, but it resembled one of those miniature ones, like for school children with special needs. Which is exactly what I felt like after I tried to explain my predicament to the bus driver. Basic phrases in French I could handle but my French teacher never taught me how to negotiate bus routes. But the driver, who resembled a Provencal Joe Pesci, and the rest of the passengers on the bus, decided to humor me anyway.

Finally, after what seemed like an eternity of me awkwardly trying to hold on to the rail and not drip on the curious people seated around me, the bus driver pulled up alongside a fleet of cushy coaches that were idilyng on the side of the road. He pointed them and told me to take the first coach.

I thanked him profusely and slogged over to the first coach in line. The coach driver eyed me wearily as I splashed my way onboard. Not only did I resembled a scantily clad wet dog (in an outfit that I thought looked very “boho chic” when dry) but my face was straight from an impressionist film, with mascara running down my cheeks and a nose that was bright red from the cold.

“I need to go to the train station,” I mustered in my best French. He nodded dismissively and politely demanded four Euros.

Thinking it was odd that a five-minute bus ride would cost four Euros, I forked over the money anyway and found a dry seat to sit on near the coveted back of the bus. Thankfully the coach was almost empty and the snoozing teenager in the corner hadn’t noticed my arrival.

After puttering for a few more minutes, the coach finally lurched forward with a lazy groan. We coasted down the hill, splashing past crowded coral houses and wallowing Smart Cars. Then we drove past the train station and onto a country highway.

As the spanking new Grasse train station faded away in the distance, the water in my brain finally cleared. The reason the coach cost so much was not because it was taking me to the train station in Grasse, but because it was going to the train station in Cannes. (Of course, I didn’t realize that until the coach dropped me off in front of my hotel. I spent the whole bus ride trying to remember the French word for “lost.”)

I sighed and looked down at my soggy, wasted train ticket. I brought my petite bottle of Miranda out of the damp gift bag and sprayed a bit on my wrists. I inhaled the scent deeply and leaned back in my damp seat. At least I smelled good.

Grasse Office de Tourisme
Ph: (33) 4 93 36 66 66 Fax: (33) 4 93 36 86 36

Frangonard – Blvd. Frangonard
Ph: (33) 4 93 36 44 65
Galimard – 73 Route de Cannes
Ph: (33) 4 93 09 20 00
Molinard – 60 Blvd. Victor Hugo
Ph: (33) 4 93 36 01 62

Mecure Grasse – Rue Martine Carol, 06130, Grasse, France.
Ph: (33) 4 93 70 70 70 Fax: (33) 4 93 70 46 31
Hotel L’Horizon – 100 Promenade Saint Jean, 06530, Grasse, France.
Ph: (33) 4 9360 51 69 Fax: (33) 4 93 60 56 29
Bastide Saint Mathieu – 35 Chemin de Blumenthal, 06310, St. Mathieu, Grasse, France.
Ph: (33) 4 97 01 10 00 Fax: (33) 4 97 01 10 09

STGA Bus Lines – provides daily service from Cannes and Antibes, stopping at local towns and villages along the way. Ph: (33) 4 93 36 37 37
SNCF – the new railway connects Grasse with Cannes (6.80 Euros, 2nd class return ticket, 25 minutes) and Nice (21.20 Euros, 2nd class return ticket, 1 hour) as well as Monaco, Menton and Ventimiglia, Italy.

All images, excluding the first two, courtesy of Grasse Tourism

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Thursday, April 16, 2009

Palm Springs, the retro classic is suddenly hip again

Known for its unflappable sunshine, dry desert air and a myriad of premium golf courses, Palm Springs, California, is often known as a retiree’s paradise. However, Palm Springs hasn’t always had this mellow reputation.

Back when Hollywood had its Golden Age, Palm Springs was known as “The Playground of the Stars”, the place where Sonny Bono would become mayor, where Frank Sinatra and Ava Gardner drank their way through debauchery and scandal and where streets take on names such as Kirk Douglas Way and Ginger Rogers Road.

Now, Palm Springs is going through a revival in attempt to reclaim its golden years, becoming more and more appealing to young, active and stylish travelers. A two-hour drive from LA, Palm Springs has become an easy jaunt for those looking to experience the retro classic.

Where to sleep

For a taste of Old Hollywood, you can’t go wrong with the new Movie Colony Hotel. With 16 rooms in three 1930’s whitewashed buildings, the Movie Colony is boutique-style luxury with a retro twist. Choose from lounging around in cushy chaises on the vast balcony or in your 400-thread count sheets in your swank room. In the 30’s the hotel was a favorite desert escape for martini-sipping celebrities. Indulge in one at the hotel’s refreshing al fresco bar.
726 N. Indian Ave., 1-800-953-5700,; room rates $190–$289

A favorite of today’s stars is Le Parker Meridien, where Brad Pitt and Angelina Jolie shacked up last year during a photo shoot. The hotel has all the amenities you would expect from Le Meridien plus a laid-back desert vibe and kitschy vintage décor. The full-service spa, the not-so aptly named Palm Springs Yacht Club, boasts 15,000 square feet of relaxation with four swimming pools and four clay tennis courts. Enjoy a Swedish massage after a hard day of schmoozing in the downtown bars, only ten minutes away.
4200 E. Palm Canyon Drive., 1-800-543-4300,; room rates $250-$500

The Viceroy Palm Springs Resort and Spa is another popular hotel and understandably so. This hip oasis has a fresh, Continental vibe with attention to detail like ceramic whippet statues, Italian designer sheets and luxurious bath products. Manicured gardens, adorned with fragrant citrus trees, line the spacious grounds, which is quite popular for wedding ceremonies. But fear not you singles, the Citron’s cocktail lounge is great for socializing with other hipsters.
415 South Belardo Road Palm Springs; 1- 800-670-6184,; room rates $149-$389

Out to eat, out to drink

Piero’s Aqcua Pazzo California Bistro, located in The Rivers shopping complex on Rancho Mirage’s famous restaurant row, is great for a night out. There’s a little something for everyone at this spacious and stylish restaurant, accented by indoor waterfalls and smiling staff. For a European touch, try the Wild Mushroom Soup with white truffle and olive oil. Pazzo also offers diners outdoor seating on the terrace, which is the perfect place to people-watch and enjoy the ½ price happy hour.
71-800 Highway 111, Rancho Mirage; (760) 862-9800, $10-$30

For a taste of the tropics, Halewia Joes offers Hawaiian-style dining with fresh fish flown in daily. Popular with locals and visitors alike, the restaurant is in a magnificent setting, the building set into part of a mountain. Aside from the setting and relaxing, island décor, the food at Halweias is something to hula about. For a rich, mouth-watering seafood dish, try the catch of the day, baked in a macadamia nut crust or, if you have a light appetite, a plate of sticky ribs or Thai lemongrass calamari should do the trick. Wash it all down with a Madam Pele, a mix of coconut rum, strawberries and cream.
69-934 Highway 111, Rancho Mirage; (760) 324-5613, $10-$35

Close to Halewia’s is Tastings, a unique restaurant with a fun, trendy vibe. Tastings concentrates on its extraordinary wine list and consequently all dishes on the menu are meant to compliment it. They currently have 42 different wines by the glass. This novel approach to dining means that you can sample from a range of tapas-style dishes, all particularly suited for one wine or another. The space is sleek and relaxed with comfy couches perfect for curling up with a dish of steamed mussels and a glass of crisp sauvignon blanc.
69-930 Highway 111, Rancho Mirage; (760) 324-4044, $12-$35

Keeping with Palm Springs new retro-theme, The Deck is one of the hippest bars around. Perched atop The Chop House, this bar offers light dining, live jazz, toasty fireplaces and a happening happy hour (3:30-6:30) that cuts 50 per cent off drinks and bar food. Swing by on a Friday night for a few drinks before heading out on the town.
262 S. Palm Canyon Drive, Downtown Palm Springs; (760) 325-5200

A good place to have your night out on the town is at the Atlas Restaurant and Nightclub. This club serves food until midnight but the drinks fly all night long (or at least until 2 AM). With a spacious dance floor, great sound and an extensive martini list, Atlas has a retro-modern theme that’s very fun and very now.
210 S. Palm Canyon Drive, Downtown Palm Springs; (760) 325-8893

What to see, what to do

A trip to Palm Springs is not complete with out seeing The Palm Springs Follies in action. This Vaudevillian song and dance team is world-famous and Broadway caliber. The twist here is that none of these talented troopers are a day younger than 55, proof that seniors in Palm Springs do more than just play golf and bingo. The shows run from November to May 30th so see them while you can. You’ll be looking at your Grandmother differently afterwards.
128 S. Palm Canyon Drive, Downtown Palm Springs; (760) 327-0225

Opened on New Years Eve 2005, Fantasy Springs Resort Casino is the area’s largest casino with 2000 slot machines, 30 table games and off-track betting. The four-star resort also features 250 rooms and suites, as well as four restaurants with cuisine from Asia, Brazil, Italy and Mexico. A 24-lane bowling center lies adjacent to the property. Because the casino is open 24 hours, being bored here is not an option.
84 245 Indio Springs Parkway, Indio; 1-800- 827-2946; rates $126-$279

About a 45-minute drive from Palm Springs is the $250 million Morongo Casino Resort and Spa. Already a favorite with celebrities, this new, sleek high-rise in the nearby town of Cabazon is like Las Vegas condensed. With a private 2400-square-foot poker room, thousands of slot machines and a hip nightclub, Desert Rain, Morongo will entertain you for days, or at least until your money runs out.
4970 Seminole Drive (off of I-10), Cabazon; 1-800-252-4499; rates $109-$269

Every January, Palm Springs holds its International Film Festival. Hosted for the last several years by Entertainment Tonight’s Mary Hart, the Film Festival draws big names and great films. Shirley MacLaine was recently honored with the festival’s lifetime achievement award.
Go to for more information

For all you adventurous types, 4x4ing in a Hummer through desolate desert hills might pique your interest. Hummer Adventure Tours will take you over the shifting San Andreas Fault or through the wild and beautiful Joshua Tree National Park. Just remember to wear lots of sunscreen and make sure your hat secures around your head. You don’t want it to fly off and have to wrestle a cactus for it.
Call 1-877-WE-HUMMER for reservations or email at; rates $89-$119

If you prefer to see the scenery from a more natural mount, try Crazy Horse Ranch. The owner Jacklyn Barrett, takes the traditional trail riding expedition and makes it her own. All riders and horses are coached in Natural Horsemanship, a new wave of “horse whispering” that provides greater understanding between horse and rider and ensures for a memorable ride.
50440 Cheyenne Trail, Morongo; (760) 831-6450; rates $50-$100

Of course an even more adventurous view would be from the seat of a vintage Warbird or Biplane. Nostalgic Warbird Rides gives visitors the chance to ride in one of these bad babies, dipping and twirling above the desert floor. Some planes are even fitted with stereos to play music from the era, all to get you in the mood. Of course, the company also offers more serene sightseeing flights for those who don’t feel like losing their lunch.
Call 1-800-991-2473 for more information; rates $125-$479

Where to buy

El Paseo is Palm Springs version of Rodeo Drive, a several block span of upscale boutiques, eateries, art galleries and a Saks Fifth Avenue, all sumptuously adorned by palm trees and desert scenery.
Call 1-877-7EL-PASEO for more information

Desert Hills Premium Outlet is located in Cabazon across from the Morongo Casino and Resort. The sprawling open-air shopping mecca features hundreds of stores such as Coach, Tods, Bebe, Guess, Versace and Gucci all at 25 to 65 per cent off retail prices. Best bet is to go in the morning before the tour buses from LA and Las Vegas show up and unload their shop crazy passengers.
4800 Seminole Drive, Cabazon

The River Shopping Complex
is located in the middle of restaurant row in Rancho Mirage. The River has several quality stores such as Borders Books and Music, Ulta, Bath and Body Works, beauty salons and local boutiques.
71-800 Highway 111, Rancho Mirage

Celebrity Seconds
is one of the many vintage and consignment stores in Palm Springs. What makes Celebrity stand out from the crowd is its vast collection of vintage clothing and jewelry that was worn by the stars, including Ginger Rogers’ private collection. The tiny shop also offers more affordable vintage pieces, although the previous owner is more likely to have been an old lady who lived down the street.
333 N. Palm Canyon Drive, Downtown Palm Springs; (760) 416-2072

Trina Turk’s flirty flagship store is located here in Palm Springs. A favorite wardrobe choice among Young Hollywood, Trina Turk offers gorgeous, feminine designs. This is California chic at its finest.
891 N. Palm Canyon Dr., Downtown Palm Springs; 760) 416-2856

How to get to there

Palm Springs is well serviced by several American airlines such as Alaska, Delta and United with seasonal flights to and from Canada from Westjet and Harmony Airways. provides a more extensive list of flights

Taking to the road is another option. Palm Springs is just 110 miles from LA, 273 miles from Las Vegas and 280 miles from San Francisco. The Mexican border is just a short days drive away.

Wednesday, April 15, 2009

Venice in Color

Too lazy to post so I will leave you with some pictures of color!!


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